When was the last time you did something for the first time?”
What to expect
Summer holidays
Time for a road trip – in my Mini
We are still in Covid times (surprise) and some countries are still closed for tourism unfortunately. Blake and I are together in Germany so it would be unpractical to leave Europe. Plus, we did not want to fly somewhere this early into Covid. So we thought it would be fun to do a road trip together – not in a campervan though, but in my little Mini instead đ. Obviously, we wouldnât sleep in my tiny car (20-year-old-me would have definitely done it).
Since some borders were open again, we were ready to leave Germany and head to Eastern Europe â Slovenia and Croatia to be exact. At first we wanted to include Montenegro and Bosnia as well on our five-week-trip. But on the trip we realised that we were a little too ambitious with our time on the road. In addition, Bosnia still had closed borders and Montenegro just started quarantine laws after the time spent there.
On the first day of my summer holidays (happiest day for a teacher â just saying), we started our road trip in hail, rain and strong winds â donât you just love German summers?!
Luckily, by the time we had arrived in Munich six hours later, the storm was over and we were greeted with sunshine on our first stop.
Germany
Munich, Germany
Munich is one of my favourite cities in Germany, so what do you do here when you have a âforeignerâ with you? Of course, you go to the Hofbräuhaus in the old town and order a âMaĂâ beer (= one litre). And then? Sure, you go to the English Garden and have another âMaĂâ beer with a âSchweinshaxeâ (=pork knuckle), some sauerkraut and a huge pretzel. German sytle đ.
Other things we did in Munich (besides drinking beer):
- do a free walking tour (unfortunately ours didnât take place because of covid, so we did our own walking tour instead)
- visit the Marienplatz and watch the famous “Glockenspiel” at the Munich’s New City Hall every full hour
- watch some surfers catch the wave in the English Garden
- visit the âViktualienmarktâ (biggest market in Munich) and buy some fresh fruit and veggies (or in our case: sit in the beer garden on the market place)
Penzberg, Schloss Neuschwanstein and Murnau, Germany
After three nights in Munich, we went to Penzberg, a small town in Bavaria, to visit my friend Wiebke who I had met during my semester abroad in Australia (the same time I met Blake in 2011/ 2012). Wiebkeâs boyfriend recommended the town Murnau to us. This is what I love about travelling with no set plans: you are always flexible and open to new places. So we first drove to Murnau, then to Schloss Neuschwanstein and then passed Murnau again to drive further to Salzburg, Austria. We werenât in any rush and Blake didnât know that we went back and forward anyways, so who cares đ?! The beauty of a road trip.
Austria
Salzburg, Austria
Before we went to Slovenia, we had one night in Salzburg which was the first time for both of us. I love exploring new places with Blake, whether itâs in Germany in covid times, in Europe or somewhere else in the world.
Where to stay and where to eat in Salzburg
The drive to Salzburg with massive mountains around you was stunning. By the time we arrived after a full day of exploring, it was already dinner time. We had booked a cute hotel called Pension Elizabeth and the owner recommended the restaurant “Fuxn” just up the road. Being about 4 months into covid, it still felt special to us to eat out again.
Things to do in Salzburg in one day
- walk over the âLove Lockâ Footbridge to enter the old town
- walk up to Militia City Wall (BĂźrgerwehr)
- from there walk over to High Salzburg Fortress (Hohensalzburg) or take up a little tram if you donât feel like walking
- go inside St. Peterâs Abbey (in the front)
- visit Salzburg Cathedral (in the back)
- visit Salzburg’s old town
- go to Mozart Square (Mozartplatz) and listen to someone playing the piano
- walk through Grain Lane (Getreidegasse) to see Salzburgâs main shopping street since Medieval Times
- visit Mozartâs Residence and Mozartâs birthplace
- walk over Mozart Footbridge to get to the other side of town
- see the Mirabell Palace and Gardens
- visit the Capuchin Monastery (Kapuzinerkloster) from where you have another nice perspective onto the town
You can also do your own guided tour around Salzburg which we did with the help of this link.
We both really enjoyed Salzburg with its impressive architecture. The same night we took off to drive to Ljubljana, Sloveniaâs capital.
Slovenia
Ljubljana, Slovenia
For a capital, Ljublana is such a cute town! There is the Ljubljana River (very creative name) that runs through the city. Ljubljana has lots of little bars, restaurants and cafĂŠs right by the river which we visited intensively. Our first day we started with relaxing in Tivoli Park and then did a three-hour-free walking tour (you might have probably figured out by now that we love free walking tours to get a first good overview of a city; they exist in nearly every bigger city these days).
Typical food in Slovenia
The walking tour was very informative and throughout the next couple of days, we tried all the foods they recommended (we are definitely âwannabe-foodiesâ). This included beef goulash with polenta, buckwheat, potica (nut roll) and struklji (dough with various types of sweet fillings – so good!).
Goulash Potica Struklji
But our highlight was definitely Sloveniaâs most famous cake: Gibanica!
Prekmurska gibanica is a type of Slovenian layered pastry. It contains poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins and quark fillings. […] it has achieved the status of a national specialty of Slovenia.
wikipedia
We were both in food heaven! It even went that far that we drove back to Ljubljana on the way home from Croatia and stopped at the exact same restaurant “Gostilna Sokol” to have this cake again (letâs just agree that we did not only come back for the cake, that would be insane).
We also walked up to Ljubljana Castle from where we had a nice view over the city. To be honest, the city looks much nicer from the ground than from above.
Ljubljana is definitely a hidden gem that is worth a visit!
Logar Valley, Slovenia
On the way from Ljubljana to Lake Bled, we took a little detour to Logar Valley. Already the way to this park was gorgeous with alpine glacial valleys and big mountains all around us. If you are into hiking, Logar Valley is your playground! We only did one hike (for some reason it always takes forever for us to get going in the morning) which involved the beautiful Rinka Waterfall and a lot of hiking upwards.
By the way, before this trip we had just purchased our first couple investment: a drone. Now we are all in! However, my first attempts of flying the drone from the top of the mountain went rather bumpy with the drone losing signal and me freaking out that Iâll lose it (probably the drone and my mind). Oh, the joys of having a drone. I also almost crashed it when bringing it back as we were right by the cliffs and there was no even ground for it to land on (one point we did not consider when starting to fly it from there â live and learn).
Lake Bled, Slovenia
We definitely needed that drink when we got into the town of Lake Bled and found a cute restaurant called Gostilna Pri Planincu close to the lake.
Blake found such a cute Airbnb at Lake Bled which was a great homestay and base for the next five days (we decided to extend our time there as we liked it so much). This accommodation was great for meeting people as we had a common kitchen and dining area (inside and outside). We met a German couple from Regensburg who we met up with in Piran later on this trip and also visited in Regensburg on the way home from this road trip as well as at the start of our road trip through Southern Germany in spring 2021.
Things to do at and around Lake Bled
Click through the slide show to see what you can do at and around Lake Bled.
Triglav National Park, Slovenia
Chasing waterfalls
Triglav National Park is the only national park in Slovenia and is amazing for hikes and chasing waterfalls. The waterfalls (= “Slap” in Slovenian) we visited – partly on the way to Kobarid – included:
- Slap Pericnic: you can walk behind the waterfall
- Slap Savica: one of the most famous waterfalls in Slovenia and close to Lake Bled and Bohinj (very touristy though)
- Slap Boca: 144m high and 18m wide; walk to the viewing platform (looks tiny in this photo)
We also stopped in the town Kranjska Gora for lunch which seems to be a great ski area in winter. Furthermore, driving through Triglav National Park was stunning as we drove up winy roads all the way to the highest mountains from where we had a great lookout over the region.
Kobarid and Tolmin, Slovenia
We only spent one night in Kobarid and one night in Tolmin which we both thought was enough to get a good feel for the area.
Things to do in Kobarid
- see Kozjak Waterfall
- see and bath in the spectacular Soca River (the colours of it are amazing)
- visit the Kobarid Museum to find out more about World War I (I must admit Blake went in there on his own)
- have dinner at Hisa Polonka in town
Things to do in Tolmin
- visit Tolmin Gorge (since the car park was quite full and we had already seen Vintgar Gorge, we were kind of âgorged-outâ and left this one out)
- have fresh squids for dinner at Gostilna Zatolmin (we actually went back here on the way home from Croatia as we loved this restaurant)
- try the famous Struklji dessert (explained in the Ljubljana entry – loved it!)
Brda Wine Region, Slovenia
If you want to go wine tasting in Slovenia, the Brda Region is your go-to place! This almost hidden corner of Western Slovenia is often referred to as the “Tuscany of Slovenia”.
We went wine tasting in the winery Klet Brda where we got 12 wines for 12⏠– we couldnât believe it! We also got water and snacks (cheese, crackers and ham) with it and a tour around the wine cellars was also included in the price. On top of that, together with one other couple we were left alone in a massive room with all the wines to get refills from. Have I mentioned that all of this only cost us 12âŹ? We highly recommend Klet Brda! At least we were both that tipsy that we bought quite a few wines in the end. Maybe that was the whole idea of this concept. Well, it worked for us!
Smartno, Goriska Brda
We also drove to another small town called Smartno in the Brda region which was placed on a hill with lots of small alleys and town walls surrounding the town. Since Smartno is very close to the Italian border, lots of Italians and other tourists usually visit the town and arrive in big tour buses. However, due to covid the town seemed deserted, so we had it all to ourselves. No complaints!
We took a break at a little cafĂŠ called Olijcni Bar in one of the small alleys where we had amazing wine and the âbest orange cake weâve ever tastedâ according to Blake. He does like to throw around his superlatives đ. It was really delicious though, with drizzled homemade olive oil on top of it. After we talked to the owner for a long time, she gave us another tasty chocolate cake âon the houseâ and showed us her gallery upstairs afterwards.
Predjama Castle and Caves of Skocjan, Slovenia
Before heading south we visited the Predjama Castle, which was quite stunning. You can also go into the castle where you can find a lot of underground caves. However, we decided to be cheap tourists and rather spend the money on food â gibanica (that super delicious cake from Ljubljana to be exact) â priorities đ.
There are more than 10 000 registered caves in Slovenia, but the two most spectacular ones are: Postojna Cave and the Caves of Skocjan. The Skocjan Cave was recommended to us as it is less touristy and you also walk inside the cave and do not ride a little train like in Postojna (sounded quite commercial to us). I enjoyed the caves more than Blake (he thought 20⏠was a rip of for it) but I think the width of the underground cave was really impressive. Unfortunately, you weren’t allowed to take photos inside.
Koper and Piran, Slovenia
Koper and Piran are in the southwest of Slovenia and are a great stopover before entering Istria in Croatia.
We had a quick stopover in Koper for some sightseeing before heading further south to Piran. Again, Blake didnât really enjoy the town (did one of his sports teams lose that day or was he just hangry?!), but I really liked its architecture and the fact that we were finally by the ocean.
When it comes to nature, Iâm definitely more a beach and island type of girl whereas Blake prefers the mountains. However, since Iâve met Blake and Iâve seen more of the mountains in summer (and not just for skiing in winter), Iâve really started to appreciate and love them more and more.
Worst accommodation in Piran
In Piran we probably had our worst accommodation yet. Even though the hosts from the Airbnb were really friendly and even offered us their stand-up paddle board (which we did not use as we would have had to carry it up a massive hill again), the place was a bit dumpy and out of town. Nevertheless, the coastal walk from their place to the city centre of Piran was beautiful.
Reunion in Piran
In Piran we looked onto the Tartini Square from above and then caught up with our friends from Regensburg for dinner (who we had met at Lake Bled). The boys romantically shared a seafood platter while Katrin and I enjoyed our own fish. It was great seeing them again and if the night in our accommodation in Piran hadnât been that uncomfortable and sweaty, we probably would have stayed a day longer.
But it was time for new adventures: Croatia â get ready for us!
Croatia
Rovinj, Pula and Kap Kamenjak, Croatia
Who knew that crossing borders in Europe in 2020 could actually be quite thrilling? All I thought when crossing the border was âact normalâ, like we were doing something illegal (which we werenât for the record đ).
Rovinj
Our first stopover was Rovinj, which is a charmingly picturesque harbour town on a little hill on the peninsula Istria. We only had a two-hour-stopover here on the way to Pula, but looking back at the two towns, we actually preferred the vibe in Ronvinj more with its narrow, cobbled streets. Besides getting a feel for the town, we had a drink in Mediterraneo Bar, which is probably the most famous bar in Rovinj these days. (We thought it was an insider tip â maybe not.)
Pula
After our short stopover in Rovinj, we drove for about 40 minutes south to the southern end of the Istrian Peninsula: Pula. Pula is a lot bigger than Rovinj and looked very Italian to us. There were a lot of German tourists in Pula, which is necessarily not a bad thing (especially when one of us is a German tourist as well), but it just seemed a bit too touristy and crowded for our liking.
Things to do in and around Pula
- explore the Arena (this Roman Amphitheatre is one of the most complete in the world and the 6th largest Roman Colosseum in the world)
- visit the Forum (= the cityâs main square) and the Temple of Augustus
- stroll to the Kastel (Venetian fortress from the 1600s)
- walk up to the Monestary of St. Francis (on the central hill)
- see the Gate of Hercules (one of the earliest pieces of Roman heritage)
- admire the Arch of the Sergii
- relax at one of the cityâs beaches, eg. Ambrela Beach (remember: most of the beaches are rocky and not sandy in Croatia!)
- do a day trip to Cape Kamenjak (Istriaâs southernmost point) â highly recommend it if you are into nature (again: no sand, just large rocks)
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
Plitvice Lakes National Park is UNESCO world heritage and is the biggest national park in Croatia as well as the oldest one in south-east Europe. We stayed at Osana House which was about 6km away from the Plitvice Lakes. After paying the entry fees of around 40⏠(it’s cheaper in the low season, so anywhere outside of June to September), there are different routes you can do choose from:
- Trail A: 2-3 hours – 3.5km – easy
- Trail B: 3-4 hours – 4km – easy
- Trail C: 4-6 hours – 8km – moderate
We were quite ambitious and chose Trail C. Due to covid, all the routes are one-way paths and somewhere on the path you take a boat to cross the lake to get the next path. In the end we took the shuttle bus back to the entry of the park.
Even though the lake had these stunning turquoise colours and weâve passed several waterfalls and all the photos looked great too, we were almost a bit disappointed. Maybe it was the number of tourists that we were not used to anymore coming from Slovenia which felt empty to us in comparison. Or we were missing this one wow-effect that we had been waiting for on the entire walk. It was still totally worth the visit, but in our eyes something was missing.
Split, Trogir, Hvar and Brac, Croatia
After we spontaneously decided to spend one more night at Osana House near Plitvice Lakes National Park (it was the cheapest place we had stayed at on this trip and had the most comfortable beds!), we headed to Split next. We loved Split! I had already been there in 2013 on a interrail trip in my semester break with a good friend of mine and already back then I fell in love with this town. Its old town is so charming by day and night and the city is right by the ocean. We loved getting lost in the little alleys or just wandering around the old town in the evening with different sounds and scents that were awaiting us behind every corner.
Things to do in and around Split
- do a free walking tour
- do a day trip to the Krka Waterfalls (I did that in 2013)
- visit the Diocletianâs Palace
- stroll around the old town
- drive to Klis Fortress (from Game of Thrones), about 10 km northeast of Split
- climb up Marjan to overlook Split
- do a day trip to the UNESCO site Trogir (felt like a smaller version of Split to us)
- relax at one of the few sandy beaches in Split: Bacvice City Beach (it was very crowded!)
- take a boat ride to the island Hvar and explore the bays, beaches and bars there
- take a boat ride to the island Brac, rent a scooter on the island and drive to Horseshoe Bay
- do a sunset sailing tour (with an open bar – that’s how you get your boyfriend to do something romantic with you ;-))
Korcula Island, Croatia
After Hvar and Brac we visited one more island near Split: Korcula. We absolutely loved this island and besides Split it was definitely our favourite place in Croatia! But what to do with my car while being on this island? Again, we were living the flashbacker lifestyle (= low budget lifestyle overall, but still eating out), but we were optimistic (or naĂŻve?!) enough to think that my car would survive on the side of the road without paying for supervised parking. We even left lots of our belongings inside the car because we wanted to travel light on Korcula. Spoiler alert: It did work, but we were probably very lucky and Iâm not sure if Iâd advise this “plan” to anyone elseâŚ
The ferry ride to Korcula took 2.20 hrs where we were planning on staying for two nights. Well, as soon as we arrived there, we knew two nights wouldnât be enough so 2 nights turned into four nights â the beauty of travelling without a set plan!
We stayed in a very cute homestay called Guest House City Center, run by a Croatian Mama who welcomed us with a bottle of white wine. We already felt at home đ. The location was awesome as it was right by the old town of Korcula.
Things to do on Korcula
- explore the old town
- have a cocktail at Massimo Cocktail Bar and watch sunset (It’s up an old tower so they hoist the cocktails from the bar to the deck via a pulley)
- rent a bike and ride to Lumbarda for some wine-tasting
- visit the only micro-brewery on the island: Pinjac Pub and Brewery (we walked there in 34 degrees, which was so exhausting but made us feel like we deserved the beers afterwards even more)
- do a kayak tour
- relax on one of the beaches around the old town
That day on the bike where we rode to different vineyards and sampled different wines, tried different cheeses and had great conversations with the locals before riding to one of the only sandy beaches on the island where we happily dozed off, was probably one of the happiest days on this road trip. When we got back to Korcula town, we bought two beers in a mini market and set by the ocean to watch sunset.
It is so simple to be happy, but it is very difficult to be simple.â
Rabindranath Tagore
In this moment, however, it did feel very simple to be happy.
In autumn 2020 we took our first flight in covid times. If you want to know which two islands we visited next, click here.
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